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Why Kuju Highlands Is More Than a Drive-Through

Most visitors treat the Kuju highlands as scenery — something you drive through on the way from Beppu to Aso, windows down, camera out at Makinoto Pass, then gone. That’s fair; the views alone justify the detour. But the same stretch of grassland that makes the drive worth it also hides two things almost no English-language guide mentions: a horseback outfit that takes riders out into the open highland, and a small winery tucked just off the main road.

We did both on the same afternoon in July, with two friends along for the ride — literally.

Horseback Riding at Kokopelli Western Riding

Kokopelli Western Riding runs trail rides out of a working ranch in Kuju, using American Quarter Horses — a breed known for being steady enough for first-timers, patient enough for kids. There’s no online booking system as far as we could find; you reserve by phone (090-7398-0302), the same way we did.

After a short briefing and a helmet, you walk your horse from the mounting platform into the training yard, then out through a gate into the open highland itself. That’s the part photos of a riding ring can’t capture: one minute you’re on packed gravel next to a barn, the next you’re moving through grass at eye level with the ridgeline, with nothing between you and the Kuju range but the horse’s ears.

We rode as a group of three — myself and two friends — on the standard trail ride: about an hour out in the highland, priced around ¥16,500 per person. It’s the middle tier of three options. A shorter ~30-minute half trail ride opens up to first-graders for roughly ¥8,250, while a longer ~120-minute “special” trail ride runs ¥36,300 and requires riders to be at least middle-school age. If you want to canter rather than walk, you’ll need to say so when you book — Kokopelli asks experienced riders to call ahead by 5 p.m. the day before.

The first thing you notice is how high up you suddenly are — sitting on a horse puts your eyeline well above anything you’re used to, and for three total beginners, that was more thrilling than scary. None of us had ridden before. The staff teach you the only two commands you need before setting off: pull the left rein to stop, tip it left or right to steer. After that, the whole group moves out single file, with a guide walking at the front of the line and another at the back.

The route runs in two halves. The first loop crosses grassland near the stables, giving you a few minutes to get used to the motion and the reins. Then the trail crosses a paved road — horse, rider, and waiting cars — before opening onto a second, much wider stretch of highland grass with a clearer view of the Kuju range. That second half, with more room and a better backdrop, is the one worth the price of admission.

What makes it manageable for total beginners is the staff, not the rider. Every so often a horse needs a bathroom break mid-trail, and whichever guide is leading or trailing the line calls it out by name — something like “she needs to go, let’s stop here” — before the whole line halts together and starts up again. You’re never really managing anything alone; you sit, steer a little, and let the guides handle the rest. Good enough that the two friends who joined us, both visiting from Tokyo, spent the ride saying you simply can’t do this in a city.

A couple of practical notes if you’re booking: nobody asked about our weight when we called to reserve, even though similar operators elsewhere in Japan often post a limit — worth asking directly if you’re concerned. Staff did check footwear and clothing on arrival, so wear sneakers and long pants (sandals and skirts get turned away), and helmets are handed out free — no need to bring your own.

A Detour to Kuju Winery

A few minutes from the ranch, in the same stretch of Kuju, is a winery most people driving the highlands never notice: Kuju Winery, a working vineyard-and-shop with a tasting counter, a wood-and-bamboo interior, and a wine list built around grapes grown right there in the highlands.

Whoever’s driving misses out on the tasting — that was me — but my friends worked through a few pours at the counter and left with two bottles of red. If wine’s not your thing, or you’re the designated driver, the shop also sells smoked foods and dried fruit, and there’s a wood-fired pizza restaurant attached if you want to make a real stop of it. We settled for the simpler option: a soft-serve made with the winery’s own grapes, eaten at a picnic table with a view back toward the highland we’d just ridden across. It was brutally hot by the time we got there, which made the shaded rest area — and that cold soft-serve — feel less like a snack stop and more like a reset button; and given how close it sits to the ranch, it barely counts as a detour at all.

Cost: Tastings are free; you pay only for what you buy.

Hours: Shop 11:00–18:00 (17:00 in winter); restaurant 11:00–17:00 (16:30 in winter).

Booking: None needed for the shop or tasting counter.

Planning the Loop — Riding, Wine, and the Rest of Your Day

Both stops sit in the same pocket of Kuju, close enough that you can do the ranch and the winery back-to-back in half a day — ride in the late morning, while it’s still cool, then let the horses (and your legs) rest while you eat and drink at the winery in the early afternoon. Neither one is reachable without a car; if you haven’t sorted out a rental yet, see our guide to driving the Yamanami Highway for what you’ll need, including the international driving permit rules that trip up a lot of visitors.

FAQ

Do I need to book the horseback riding in advance?

Yes, that’s the safest bet — Kokopelli Western Riding doesn’t run an online booking system, so you reserve by phone (090-7398-0302). If you want to canter rather than walk, say so when you call, and do it by 5 p.m. the day before. Walk-ins are sometimes accommodated too — the ranch will fit you in without a reservation if there’s space that day — but don’t count on it, especially in peak season.

Is this suitable for kids?

Yes, with some structure to it: preschool-age children can ride tandem with an adult, solo riding opens up from first grade, and there’s no upper age limit at all. If you’re traveling with a toddler who’d rather not solo it, ask about the tandem option when you call.

What happens if the weather turns bad?

Rides are cancelled outright rather than rescheduled on the spot — the ranch doesn’t run in rain, strong wind, or similar conditions. If the forecast looks rough, call ahead before you make the drive out.

Do I need to book the winery?

No — the tasting counter and shop are walk-in.

Can I drink and then drive?

Only if you’re not the one driving. Japan has zero tolerance for drink-driving; whoever’s behind the wheel should skip the tasting, the way we did.